Good food and great views in tiny Gadmen

March 25, 2021, No comments

Gadmen? I’d never heard of it but apparently it’s the most easterly village in Canton Bern. It straddles the road up to the Susten Pass, except in winter when the pass is closed so Gadmen is at the end of a road to nowhere. But at least the Postbus still goes up there.

Why did I travel three hours by train and bus to a snowy cul-de-sac? For a cross-country skiing weekend with Pink Alpine (more on that another time), staying in the Gadmer Lodge. What a gem of a place tucked into the foothills. I really liked it but it wasn’t completely perfect.

Part of the hotel was the village school (150 years ago Gadmen had 750 inhabitants; today it’s 220) but most is much newer: the Lodge opened in autumn 2019. The big restaurant has good views and even better food, possibly the best I’ve had in a mountain hotel.

Bedrooms aren’t huge but they’re smart and comfortable, though unbearably hot with no room controls. At night it was -16c, rather chilly to have the window open but it was the only option. The next day, we got the central heating turned down a tad but it was still warm.

The other drawback was the crazy bathroom door of half-frosted glass. Imagine travelling with a friend and seeing them sitting on the loo: not everyone wants that. Style over function, sadly. That aside, the rooms were super and I’d definitely go for one at the back with a balcony. Number 17 is the best of all. There are also nice bunk rooms for those on a budget.

For cross-country skiers, it’s perfect with the loops passing right by the hotel. And in summer, it’s a top location for hikers, though the Susten Pass is a favourite route for motorbikes so the roadside rooms might be noisy. I’d stay again for the food and the views if nothing else.

Book direct here.

Overall rating: 81%

• Best bits: delicious food, great views, comfy rooms.
• Worst bits: no heating controls, possibly noisy in summer, bathroom doors.

We stayed in a double room for 210 francs a night including breakfast.